Intonation

[Bob411]

Over the years,I've read several times, don't try to intonate your guitar with new strings. Can't recall ever anybody saying when your strings are old enough. A day? A week? A year?

 

[jrockbridge]

Interesting. I had never heard that before.

I thought it was a bad idea to try to intonate a guitar with old strings. With new strings, I have waited a week or two because I’m a procrastinator.

 

[jp_nyc]

I’m pretty sure guitar techs and luthiers don’t string a guitar then let the strings age before finishing the setup.

 

[jrockbridge]

You can set the intonation as soon as you put on new strings. Then, you can check it again in a week or two. Make slight adjustments if needed.

 

[Dogsinplastic]

I think once hte strings are stretched and settled you'd be fine intonating new (to new-ish) strings.

 

[Monson]

I think once hte strings are stretched and settled you'd be fine intonating new (to new-ish) strings.

Yes, I should think so too. I've never given this much thought.

 

[Bob411]

Son did a Warmouth build Tele. Neck is a 10-16 compound radius and after having it he decided he doesn't really like the compound radius and gifted it to me. Put it on my Peavey Predator. It's been the beater guitar forever, the one I take out to the garage when I'm working on an amp and I don't worry about treating it with kid gloves.

Heel of Peavey neck is 1/8" thicker than the Warmout neck, I ordered a piece of 1/8" maple. Maybe I would of been able to adjust saddle height enough but, I hate the screw heads sticking way up.

Peavey neck was 22 fret and fret board hung over at the bottom. I think the new neck landed in the right place but, I want to know for sure I can intonate it/not have to move bridge, before repainting it.

Also, I'll wait to see when somebody spots something. No, it's not the missing pickguard screw.

 

[DinoMikeSr]

Over the years,I've read several times, don't try to intonate your guitar with new strings. Can't recall ever anybody saying when your strings are old enough. A day? A week? A year?

Once strings are stretched and tuning stabilizes it’s usually fine.

So what does that mean time wise or how in my case? I put a new set on and tune to the pitch. Then stretch each string by pulling up several times and retune. Then with a thick pick I strum it for about 30 second and then stretch again and tune to pitch. I’ll strum it again and check the tuning. Then I’ll play it normally for song or two and do some bendy playing. Check the tuning and if it held then I’ll adjust intonation.

Guitars with individual saddles like a strat, sitting while playing, I’ll adjust intonation while it’s hanging around my neck.

 

[Gorgon90]

Also, I'll wait to see when somebody spots something. No, it's not the missing pickguard screw.

Truss rod adjustment on the side of the heel?

 

[jelloman]

I want to know for sure I can intonate it/not have to move bridge

Don't overthink it...if you can tune the guitar to pitch and have the 12th fret notes match an octave higher you can intonate it...

Strings don't need to be aged to a specific date, they just need to hold tuning stability to properly intonate the instrument...

 

[Dogsinplastic]

You can do shims at the bottom of the neck pocket. Fender (US and Japan at least), G&L, Ibanez, and others used to put shims in to deal with neck angles. They are usually a 1/16th of an inch or less high, an inch to an inch and a half wide, and about 1/4" or so deep. They'd go nearest the neck pickup. There might be more than one or they might be a tad thicker...depends on the need.

Fender and G&L did away with the need as they used Leo's Micro-Tilt Adjustment (G&L's name). A variant was initially used on 3-bolt CBS Fenders and then adapted to the 4-bolt necks after Smith & Co bought Fender from CBS.

Your large shim works, but might not be necessary. A slight angle easily do as much as a larger slab shim. Also, the bridge screws can be filed/cut down as needed...which I know you know, but it is a pain in the ass.

 

[Bob411]

Truss rod adjustment on the side of the heel?

No or, at least not what I was thinking of. By the way, the main truss rod adjustment is on the bottom of the neck, like an old Fender. The one on the side, where you don't have to take the neck off is for fine tuning.

Hint: It's carrying on the theme of a Tele neck on a Strat.

 

[Bob411]

You can do shims at the bottom of the neck pocket. Fender (US and Japan at least), G&L, Ibanez, and others used to put shims in to deal with neck angles. They are usually a 1/16th of an inch or less high, an inch to an inch and a half wide, and about 1/4" or so deep. They'd go nearest the neck pickup. There might be more than one or they might be a tad thicker...depends on the need.

Fender and G&L did away with the need as they used Leo's Micro-Tilt Adjustment (G&L's name). A variant was initially used on 3-bolt CBS Fenders and then adapted to the 4-bolt necks after Smith & Co bought Fender from CBS.

Your large shim works, but might not be necessary. A slight angle easily do as much as a larger slab shim. Also, the bridge screws can be filed/cut down as needed...which I know you know, but it is a pain in the ass.

In a bizarre coincidence, the Peavey neck had a micro tilt.