So, my intro to mountain biking, 25 years later, has been interesting. First, I broke a rib on the first feature of the first MTB-specific trail I’d ever ridden. Then, with the wake up call that I needed a proper bike stat, I ordered a beautiful bike from Italy that couldn’t ship because of COVID for some reason.
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while nursing my rib for 2 full months, I decided to build this to hold me over until next year. A Zaskar, like the one I ordered, but a whole lot older and decidedly not carbon. I guess I have a type.
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before I went on vacation last week, I took it to my shop and had them update the shitty brakes and check the rest of my work. Yesterday was my first ride ever on a bike that has disc brakes. HOLY SHIT. I almost endo’d 4 times. I’m not used to bakes stopping a bike.
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I fell off a skinny that was several feet up that I shouldn't have been riding in the first place. When I fell, I'm pretty sure my own elbow broke my rib...lol. And yeah, I've told my fam that forward is usually better. Most of the problems I've had on a bike have been due to braking or just going too slowly.How’d you break your rib? I was riding with a new rider once, we both rented mountain bikes at Vail and did one of the downhill runs. He ate it, but thought it might be a good move to roll with it. Anyway he rolled over a big rock and cracked his rib. Rolling not good. In fact most pros throw their arms out and slide, as landing on your shoulder can also cause the most common biker break, a broken collarbone. Landing on your bar end also a good way to break a rib.
Tip: most beginners crash while braking. Sometimes it’s best just to power through tough sections.
Love it! If you are trading up, you should sell it to someone who will love it, or just use it as a spare if you won’t get much for it. But I bet you could get some money for that. I like having extra bikes around.![]()
My trusty 2008 steed, about to be retired.
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I don’t know about that bike, but mountain bikes in general got slacker angles, particularly in the front since that time, which helps with balance over, and in the suspension. Was a big deal in 29’er XC bikes. I had one and walked over the front of that thing way too many times. Fortunately all but one time without injury being able to get out of my pedals and run out of it. Felt much better once I got a more modern bike.So, my intro to mountain biking, 25 years later, has been interesting. First, I broke a rib on the first feature of the first MTB-specific trail I’d ever ridden. Then, with the wake up call that I needed a proper bike stat, I ordered a beautiful bike from Italy that couldn’t ship because of COVID for some reason.
View attachment 58816
while nursing my rib for 2 full months, I decided to build this to hold me over until next year. A Zaskar, like the one I ordered, but a whole lot older and decidedly not carbon. I guess I have a type.
View attachment 58812 View attachment 58813
before I went on vacation last week, I took it to my shop and had them update the shitty brakes and check the rest of my work. Yesterday was my first ride ever on a bike that has disc brakes. HOLY SHIT. I almost endo’d 4 times. I’m not used to bakes stopping a bike.
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Sure. Just pull the core, pour a couple ounces or whatever in, spin the tires around in the driveway or whatever, check for seal, and go. As far as mixing, I don't know. I just use Stan's.For anyone that has experience with tubeless tires
I plan to go back up north to our place there since we haven't been in almost a year (I was there for a couple of days in Feb but that's it). So my gravel bike has been sitting and the tires will be completely flat. When I was up in Feb I was able to reinflate them and go for a ride no problems. Since it was only 1 day 1 ride I didn't bother putting in any new sealant. I assume that all the old sealant is likely dried up. Since I've never had a bike with tubeless tires before I'm not sure what the protocol is. Can I just put new sealant in and go? Does it have to be the same kind of sealant or can they be mixed and matched? (note that I didn't put in the sealant in the first place so I might not be able to find out what is the original). Any other advice. I plan to be up for about a month so depending on weather might get a few hundred miles in and would rather not deal with a flat if it is avoidable
Thanks!
Technically, you are not supposed to mix sealant, but if the sealant is old and likely dried up, it shouldn't matter. I know Stan's is compatible with other some brands, so maybe go with their sealant if possible. You are supposed to top off your sealant at least once a year.For anyone that has experience with tubeless tires
I plan to go back up north to our place there since we haven't been in almost a year (I was there for a couple of days in Feb but that's it). So my gravel bike has been sitting and the tires will be completely flat. When I was up in Feb I was able to reinflate them and go for a ride no problems. Since it was only 1 day 1 ride I didn't bother putting in any new sealant. I assume that all the old sealant is likely dried up. Since I've never had a bike with tubeless tires before I'm not sure what the protocol is. Can I just put new sealant in and go? Does it have to be the same kind of sealant or can they be mixed and matched? (note that I didn't put in the sealant in the first place so I might not be able to find out what is the original). Any other advice. I plan to be up for about a month so depending on weather might get a few hundred miles in and would rather not deal with a flat if it is avoidable
Thanks!
A friend broke a rib falling off of a skinny this year too.I fell off a skinny that was several feet up that I shouldn't have been riding in the first place. When I fell, I'm pretty sure my own elbow broke my rib...lol. And yeah, I've told my fam that forward is usually better. Most of the problems I've had on a bike have been due to braking or just going too slowly.
Skinnys are the worst.A friend broke a rib falling off of a skinny this year too.
Technically, you are not supposed to mix sealant, but if the sealant is old and likely dried up, it shouldn't matter. I know Stan's is comparable with other some brands, so maybe go with there sealant if possible. You are supposed to top off your sealant at least once a year.
I actually like flare and it works for me I think. And I like multiple hand positions, esp. up on the flat part of the bars. I think I will check out those. The aero loop is a little 80's triathlete looking, but could be functional. I like my flat Jones loop bar on my commuter bike I made out of an old fully rigid mountain bike, and was considering something like it for my gravel bike, but wanted to retain the drop position as well. This might do the trick.First off, I must say that I hate flared gravel handlebars. The wonky position of the brake/shift levers look like they wouldn't work. All the same, I was intrigued by a new product from Redshift, the aluminum Kitchen Sink Handlebar. A few weeks of riding and I love the feel and function of them. https://redshiftsports.com/products/gravel-handlebar-drop-bar-system
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It comes with or without the welded aerobar loop and in 4 widths from 44mm to 53mm. I chose the 44mm, the loop, and the optional grips and ultra long bar tape. The tape feels great and the grips improve comfort and allow a rest for the forearms while using the aero loop. I have 6 different hand positions available. Their online videos help with installation steps and tips. https://redshiftsports.com/pages/faq-instructions
Since I took these photos, I've moved the front blinkie light to the spot just left of the stem.
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